 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|||||||||||||||
        |
|||||||||||||||
 |
|||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
Text only version
|
|
Points to consider One of the pleasures of gardening is to sit down and take a break (perhaps with a cup of tea) and admire your handiwork or contemplate your next activity. This, however, may not be such a pleasurable experience if the seat or bench on which you sit is uncomfortable or potentially dangerous. Whether you are choosing a replacement domestic garden seat or new furniture for a communal garden there are a number of points worth considering before purchasing what could be a fairly costly item. The checklist below outlines some points to consider. Generally, the most popular garden seat is the modern park bench type. However, the following points are worth consideration when looking at any style of seating. Seats These should be either horizontal or, ideally, have a slight slope to the backrest to allow water run off. The surface or the seat should be flush or have only narrow gaps between the slats. The closer the slats, the more comfortable. Backrest This should ideally come up to your shoulders, with no protrusions that could stick into your back. Backrests that are too upright are uncomfortable and those that recline too steeply make it difficult to stand up after sitting and can lead to neck and shoulder aches. Curved backrests are fine, as long as they happen to correspond to your shape. If you are looking for total relaxation, consider head and feet support. Arms Arms should be large and fat, to enable a person to push themselves up for easy they can be unstable and may tip if the exit from the seat. The more narrow the arm, the more likely it is to dig into your arm. Bear in mind also that a wider arm enables a cup or glass to be casually rested. Construction Can you see any protruding screws (which could catch on clothes) split wood or splinters? Check whether the seat folds or comes in 'knock down' form that you have to put together yourself. This may be an advantage if you wish to store the seat in a shed or garage, during winter. Comfort Ideally, try to sit on the seat for five minutes to get a good idea of whether or not it is comfortable. Check that the seat is deep enough from front to back to give support under the thigh. Check also that it is not too high from the ground and not too deep from front to back. Can you bend your knees comfortably over the front edge of the seat and use the support of the back rest at the same time? Your feet should be flat on the ground. There should be at least 100mm of heelspace under the seat to make it easier to rise from a sitting position. This is unlikely to be a problem with a' park bench' type seat, but it is a useful measurement if you are building your own seat into another feature such as a raised bed. Obviously, people's opinion on the suitability of a seat will vary, depending on their size, age, sex and weight. If possible, ask a range of people to try it out. If a number of seats are required for a more public garden, perhaps more than one type can be chosen (allow a 600mm width per person). Alternatively, it may be that with the additional use of cushions or other adaptations, a compromise on the style can be reached, if you are not able to afford more than one.
Plastics and synthetic resin These usually come in white or green. Benches made in these materials do not always have arm rests, which could make rising out of them difficult. Whilst they are lightweight to move around the garden, they can be unstable and may tip if the back of the chair is rested on. Some makes of benches may be bolted into the ground to increase their stability, but this then makes them a more permanent fixture. The seats are usually maintenance free, apart from the occasional wipe with detergent and water. Do not use an abrasive cleaner, as this might scratch the surface. Wood Wooden seats are useful as they become neither too hot nor too cold to sit on. However, occasionally after rain they can remain damp for some time, even if wiped with a cloth. If considering purchasing a wooden seat, remember that they can be very heavy to move around the garden. Wood may attract algae, but light sanding will remove this. It may also be worth relocating the seat to a less damp or less shaded area if this becomes a regular problem. To paint or repair wood, use a microporous paint, which will allow the timber to breath, so that moisture will not become trapped beneath the surface. Softwoods (eg pine) and non-durable hardwoods (eg elm) These are usually cheaper than hardwood and are less common. Treat every year when the wood is dry, with a solvent or oil-based wood preservative (water-based stains are less effective). Stand the feet of the seat, which are more prone to rot in a pot of preservative for 24 hours, to give the wood as much time as possible to absorb the preservative. Check labels to see whether the wood has been pressure-impregnated with preservatives. If it has not, you will need to undertake some initial treatment yourself - as described above. Softwood seats can last three to 20 years, depending on the timber they are made from. Durable hardwoods (eg teak and iroko) These can last a lifetime outside without any maintenance, but are generally more expensive than softwood seats. There is also a question mark over how 'environmentally friendly' they are, because the wood for some is not from sustainable sources. Look out for the Soil Association Wood mark label, to be sure. Hardwoods can be treated with teak oil when the wood is dry and this will help retain the original colour. If it is not treated, the timber will weather to a silver grey colour. Cast metal These are more decorative seats, made from cast iron or aluminium. They can become too hot or too cold to sit on and cushions are generally recommended. Cast-iron seats are very heavy to move around and can become brittle in the winter - falling to pieces if dropped or knocked over. Aluminium seats will tend to bend rather than break if treated in the same way. If the seat is made from iron, check that the coating is baked enamel, plastic or polyester powder rather than paint, which is likely to chip and expose metal to rust. Removing a garden seat to a garage or shed for the winter will obviously prolong its life and (depending upon the material from which it is made) reduce the amount of maintenance work. However, if there is no space available indoors, covers can be bought in a range of sizes and shapes from manufacturers such as Bosmere). Alternatively, waterproof storage boxes are available from Kettler (GB) Ltd. Style of seat Consider how the style of seat will fit into the garden. In a small garden, a very large wooden bench may look rather clumsy.
Seats should be located in an accessible location, sheltered, if possible, from the wind. Ideally, have some sort of screen to the rear of the seat, so that people do not have to sit with their backs to open space. Such open space can create an uncomfortable environment, particularly if the person is unable to turn to view what is happening behind them. Seats should be recessed back from the main footpath route so that they do not become a hazard. Within the recess, allow space for not only the permanent seat, but another chair, wheelchair or pushchair. Within a domestic garden, the seat can be located in the most advantageous position, given the individual's preference for sun or shade. In a more public area, seats should be sited, if possible, in a number of different locations to allow choice for sun or shade, seclusion or a more 'busy' places. If under trees, try to avoid species that drop resin or berries, or that shed branches - as, for example, ash trees do. In positioning a seat, think about what it will stand on. Cast-iron seats generally have narrow legs and can sink into a lawn; a better position would be on a patio. In addition, the siting of a seat on a lawn will probably mean that it has to moved every time the grass is cut - and the grass around the seat may wear away with heavy use. As seats are likely to be in relatively permanent locations, it is worth giving particular thought to the type of plants placed around them. Use particular plants as markers for locating the seat - fragrant or tactile foliage, or other interesting features that can be studied at close quarters. If you are contemplating building a seating unit into another garden element such as a wall, raised bed or pergola, consider how easy it is to undertake garden maintenance whilst seated in that location. Resting places Within any garden, seats may be augmented by the addition of resting areas. These do not necessarily have to take the form of seats or benches. A place to rest without sitting may sometimes be adequate and be incorporated into another structure such as a wall: for example, building raised beds with wide walls in stone or brick can provide a 'perch'.
Low walls make useful seats they should be 450 - 500mm high, 300 - 450mm wide with coping at 1:100 to allow water to run off. Allowing a 10Omm overhang gives space for heels, to help people when rising. Dull surfaces stay cooler - confine shiny surfaces to shady places. Drainage from weepholes should not cause a hazard in icy weather - provide a drainage channel directly beneath, For more of a 'perch', walls of 500-750mm again with sloped copings, would be suitable. (Information from the Countryside Commission's informal countryside recreation for disabled people)
These may enable gardening activities to be more easily carried out. For more information about this sort of seat see Getting Going and Tools Leisure reclining seats These seats fall into the sunlounger category, but many of the guidelines given above can also be applied to these: and, as with any seat, we recommend that they be tried out before purchase. Steamer seats' are a recliner, highbacked wooden style that incorporates a foot rest.
© |
|
|
|
|
|
|||
 |
|||||||||||||||
|
Home | Gardening Topics | Tools | Ideas exchange | Links | Contact us             
© Thrive 2007 |
|||||||||||||||
