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Improving accessibility The subject of lawns is one that invariably evokes strong feelings in one direction or another. For some, the neat square of green velvet with hardly a daisy in sight becomes the epitome of gardening excellence, a veritable goal to strive towards. A well-kept lawn acts as a foil against which to set off seasonal displays of flowers and foliage and is an attractive feature in its own right. It is also a practical asset, providing the opportunity for all sorts of varied outdoor activities. However, there is another side to this story. Many older or disabled gardeners find the maintenance demands of their lawns to be a major source of worry, particularly at the height of the growing season, when grass grows fast and there are neighbourhood standards to keep up. Another common concern is that of access, some lawn surfaces being difficult or unsafe to walk on or to cross in a wheelchair. Here are a number of suggestions to help solve some commonly experienced lawn difficulties. Full technical details can be checked out easily in some of the excellent books on the subject (see suggestions listed at the end). A simple lawn care calendar is also included here, since much time and effort can be saved if maintenance operations are carried out at the right time of year. We pass on some ideas and hints to make various the practical lawn care tasks easier to carry out - particularly for those who have limited mobility or less strength than in days gone by. Lastly, for those who are still not convinced that a lawn is for them, we suggest a few alternatives to the ubiquitous patch of greenery. Note: The calendar is intended as a general guide only since local soil conditions, lawn type and seasons vary widely, thus affecting the exact timing of the operations suggested.
A lawn with a spongy, uneven surface can only be of limited use to its owners. Indeed, anyone who has difficulty walking or who uses a wheelchair will do their utmost to avoid it. In the interests of both healthy grass growth and the safety and confidence of users, a level, firm lawn surface is essential. Access across the lawn can be improved in one of two ways:
Ideally, a lawn intended for use should be laid or sown on a firm, level surface. But what if you have inherited a lawn that started out like this, and has since deteriorated through the action of wear and tear, successive years of extreme weather conditions and the accumulation of wormcasts and molehills? Do not despair! The careful use of a light roller will usually even out minor irregularities and firm grass roots to provide a healthier, safe surface to walk or ride across. However, overcompaction of the soil and the waterlogging that accompanies this is a common cause of poor grass growth and subsequent moss invasion, particularly on heavy soils. Only if weather and soil conditions permit should you consider rolling your lawn. For similar reasons too, you should avoid unnecessary walking on the lawn in winter months wherever possible. A top-dressing of lawn sand, peat or loam, brushed in and levelled, can be a useful way of eliminating minor irregularities. To level larger bumps or hollows it may be necessary to carry out minor lawn repairs: cutting and rolling back the turf and removing or adding soil as necessary, before rolling it back down again. If your lawn is spongy and therefore difficult to move about on with ease, then you may need to improve drainage by installing land drains if the problem is severe, or embark on a course of treatment involving aeration, scarification, moss and weed killing, and feeding (these techniques are described later.) If you doubt that all this is worth the effort, think of Wimbledon's lawn tennis courts and the ease and speed of movement that meticulous management encourages there. 2. Lawn reinforcement If you want a tough, resilient lawn surface that you can get onto in most weathers without causing undue damage, it might be worth considering reinforcing a part of the lawn to create, for example, a grassy pathway. This can be done by laying pre-cast pavoirs or house bricks in an open pattern, and allowing grass to grow in between them, to create a hidden path. Alternatively, semi-rigid artificial netting, such as Netlon Turfguard (www.netlon.co.uk) which allows grass to grow through, can be laid to provide a firm footing, without affecting the look of the lawn. In all cases, this reinforcement allows weight to be more evenly distributed and lawn damage is minimised. How to lay lawn reinforcement To lay a concrete block reinforced pathway, select precast pavoirs with open centres, such as those used for screen walls. The route of the path should be marked out with pegs or string. A strip of turf the width of the path (at least 3 feet wide) is first removed. The blocks are laid flat into a firm bed of sand (or sand and mortar) so that their surface lies just below that of the lawn. (Allowing for a little settling, the mower should skim easily over the top of the block path without any damage to blades.) Good quality compost or sieved soil is then applied, and smoothed with a brush into the open design until the soil surface, when firmed lies level with that of the pavoir blocks. A grass seed mixture containing low-growing, creeping grass species is then sown into the compost and should, in due course, grow to cover the blocks. The success of this type of pathway depends largely on the skill with which the blocks are laid. An absolutely level surface, which will not move over time, is essential for wheelchair users. A similar path can be created by laying house bricks in a herringbone fashion; again to be hidden by the grass. The bricks can be laid with 2 inch gaps between the rows. Sieved soil or compost is brushed firmly between the bricks; the surface levelled off and the grass mixture sown. Neither of these types of pathway are necessarily ideal for use by someone with poor balance or using a walking stick or frame. Unless these paths are immaculately laid, they may well settle out over time to give an uneven surface that is far from easy to move over freely. There is less risk of creating an uneven walking surface if rigid plastic-coated steel mesh or nylon mesh is used as lawn reinforcement. Lay lengths of this type of mesh over a well-levelled area before laying turf, or sowing grass seed on top. Alternatively, products such as the Netlon Turfguard can be laid over the top of previously laid turf. Better weight distribution is achieved, minimising lawn damage, and the effectiveness of this method has been well-proven recently by its successful use on race tracks, sports fields and gate entrances. Scarifying and sweeping Over time most lawns tend to accumulate a surface mat of dead grass and moss, old clippings and ageing leaves, collectively known as 'thatch'. As this builds up, it hinders healthy grass growth and is therefore best removed. See the tidying information in our Tools section tidying up. Vigorous raking or sweeping (scarifying) is an effective way of removing thatch, allowing water and fertilisers to reach grass roots more easily. It can also help to remove weeds and any unwanted coarse grasses, making more room for the spread of less vigorous but more desirable finer grasses. It is best carried out in autumn when the turf thickens naturally. A traditional besom broom with a head made of twigs tied together works effectively as a scarifier. Somewhat lighter and equally useful is the springtined lawn rake designed specifically for the purpose. Light, tubular aluminium models with long handles are the easiest to use. However, the raking process requires some effort and maybe difficult or impossible for certain people. It is worth noting that making a careful choice of lawn mower can do much to help reduce the need for scarification later on. A mower with a grass box will reduce the quantity of dead material which accumulates in a lawn, although the continual need to empty the box during mowing may create further difficulty. See our information on self propelled electric mowers in the Tools section. Some mowers can be fitted with a scarifying tool which avoids the need for this extra operation. Many rotary mowers are very good at drawing up loose thatch through their vacuum action but they also tend to redistribute it elsewhere, so it still needs collecting and removing. An easy method of collecting grass clippings and thatch is to sweep this loose material onto a purpose-made polyethylene sheet with handles at the corners, which can be dragged or carried to the compost heap when full. Leaf-fall in autumn may cause annual headaches, particularly if your patch of lawn accumulates leaves blown in from neighbouring trees as well as your own. Lightweight grabber-rakes or garden grabs can save you having to bend and are useful for picking all sorts of things from ground level. See the tidying information in our Tools section tidying up. If you need to increase the capacity of your wheelbarrow to take more leaves and find it hard to empty into the bargain, then consider investing in a large purpose-made garden bag that sits in the barrow and is easily lifted out by the handles. Aerating (or spiking) Heavily used lawns become compacted. This impedes the free passage of air and also results in poor drainage. Root development is hindered, which becomes particularly detrimental during drought periods. Lawns, especially those on heavy soils, need spiking it least once a year to improve aeration - preferably in autumn and perhaps again in early spring. There are a number of ways of aerating a lawn. Small areas can be satisfactorily spike using a garden fork. Traditionally sports turf experts use hollow tine forks which remove narrow plugs of turf when pushed into the lawn. The holes left are filled with lawn sand or a top-dressing. There are simple versions on the market with two to four hollow tines joined by a crossbar, mounted on a long 'pram' handle. The tool can be operated easily without bending: simply hold onto the handle and press your foot on the crossbar to push the tines into the ground. The amateur can also use a light rotary aerating machine, which is pushed along like a lawn mower. This requires some forward pressure, and a long-handled model is easier to use than a short-handled one. You can also carry out the job by purchasing spiked boards that fit easily onto shoes and wearing these, walk up and down your lawn as systematically as possible ... good leg action is required for this though! See which of these methods suits your individual needs. Before investing in a tool, try it out first at your nearest stockist. Finally, prevention is better than cure, so wherever possible, if you have a lawn that is easily compacted, avoid walking on it in wet weather, don't use a heavy mower and, certainly, never use a roller. Weed control Weeds are commonly defined as 'plants in the wrong place'. Indeed, many people like a lawn to consist of lawn grasses alone, considering anything else present to be a weed, however attractive. Moss and broad-leaved lawn weeds can be killed by the use of a selective systemic weed killer over the whole lawn or in spot treatment. Many proprietary brands are available, suitable for use on lawns. Their systemic nature means that they are taken into the plants' transpiration system and hence work from the inside. It is therefore best to leave the lawn uncut for at least five days before application so as to ensure maximum leaf area is available for absorption. Avoid hot dry days or rainy weather, which can both reduce the effectiveness of the herbicide. Quickest results are gained with applications between May and July, especially if the lawn is given a feed the week before, for example by watering with a soluble fertiliser. After absorbing the weed killer, the broadleaved plants often grow very fast, becoming blanched and twisted. Finally, after several weeks, they die. It is best to avoid putting lawn clippings collected soon after treatment on the compost heap. Never be tempted to mulch plants with clippings from freshly treated lawns, as many harmful herbicidal chemicals are residual and remain active for months afterward. The use of a well-balanced, lightweight watering can with a long dribble bar for liquid herbicide or feed saves both labour and time. Alternatively, use a hand-operated pump sprayer and lance. The application of a granular formulation of weed killer and feed (using a light push-applicator trundled along on wheels) saves considerable effort by reducing the need for filling, lifting and carrying watering cans. Most push-applicator models have 'pram' handles so can be easily controlled with one hand. Garden centres often hire out granular applicators for a small fee. See the hose end feeders information in our Tools section tidying. 'Spot' weeding of individual weeds can be carried out mechanically using a trowel, or chemically, using a watering can and dribble bar or shield. However, the use of a 'weedwiper' glove, or a spot applicator in the form of a wick or impregnated stick at the end of a long handle, can save the need for lifting or bending and also allows for greater precision and accuracy. Link to weedkiller applicator A word of caution. When using liquid herbicides, always take every precaution to read the label and follow the directions given exactly. Where accurate measuring, mixing and application is difficult, devise home-made measures with known volumes. Granular herbicides can be much easier to handle and measure than liquid formulations. Finally, if all this still proves too much, then perhaps you should aim to create a summer floral lawn with a sward of colourful daisies, buttercups and yarrow. At least a clover-filled lawn rarely needs watering and stays green all year long. Feeding In the typical British climate, where rainwater leaches plant nutrients down through the soil, all plants benefit from time to time from a boost of fertiliser. Grass is no exception. A good feed will strengthen and thicken it and improve resistance to drought, weeds, disease, moss and hard wear. A light top-dressing fertiliser, high in nitrogen and perhaps mixed with grit, loam or peat, can be applied in spring, once the danger of frost has passed, to encourage leafy growth. In autumn, the fertiliser chosen should be relatively high in phosphates, to encourage root growth throughout the winter. This is must be applied while the grass is still actively growing. The application of granular fertiliser using a wheeled mechanical spreader (as described above) should give an even distribution of fertiliser at a pre-selected rate much more easily than if a similar fertiliser is spread by hand - even if the lawn is measured out in metre squares beforehand to ensure uniformity of distribution. These wheeled lawn spreaders are particularly useful for people who walk with a stick or who work from a wheelchair. Consider applying a combined feed/weedkiller, to save time and effort. Watering For most of the year, lawns in Britain do not need watering. However, occasional dry spells in spring or summer, especially in areas of light soil, may present a need for watering in order to prevent grass from dying back, thereby weakening the lawn. Avoid frequent light watering, which encourages shallow rooting, but also avoid heavy watering, which promotes moss and disease. Small lawns are best watered using a hosepipe with an adjustable spray nozzle, whilst a sprinkler system is ideal for a larger area. Make sure you choose a system which is easy to set nip and fit together, as well as to control There are a number of different systems on the market. Link to automated watering systems Edging A well-tended lawn can be considerably enhanced by neatly-trimmed edges. Long-handled edging shears are the traditional tool for the job but the slightly stooped position they require for operation can easily induce backache. There are tools on the market, however, that avoid this problem and can be operated easily when handled from an upright posture. Electric edge trimmers, powered by rechargeable batteries are one possibility. They can be pushed or pulled and can cut tight circles or straight lines with ease. Some are managed easily with one hand, providing the user has good balance or a stick for support in the other hand. If you prefer to kneel on the ground or a kneeling pad to do your edging, there are a number of well-designed hand lawn trimmers on the market, some being easy to grip and operate using only one hand. Lastly, do all you can to reduce the need for edging. Avoid island beds in the lawn, or narrow strips of turf. Mowing If you have neither the strength, time or interest to roll, spike, scarify, brush, weedkill, water or feed your lawn, then it probably won't be top quality, but at least it will look like a lawn. Not so with mowing - for this is the one unavoidable lawn care chore. Even if you don't notice the grass growing around your feet, your neighbours almost certainly will. Most of us know that mowing requires constant effort, particularly at the height of the growing season in May or June, when grass can grow as fast as 4 inches a week in favourable conditions. Indeed, most lawns will need cutting about 30 times a year. However, there are ways of making mowing easier. (If you have your own pet suggestions, then let us know as others would be glad to hear.)
Had enough of struggling with your lawn, but not sure what to replace it with? Consider the following:
Thymus spp. Ideal for well-drained sites in full sun. A mixture of the low growing and creeping forms gives a lovely Persian carpet effect. Establish from seed, sowing different species in bold shapes, at feast five plants per patch. Choose varieties with contrasting leaf colours, textures and flowering seasons. Maintenance is minimal, restricted to a little hand-weeding and the occasional clipping of the taller dead flower heads. Cotula squalida. Fern-like, bronzy green, soft foliage. Does best in moist soils in sun or light shade. Yellow button-like flowers in summer, ideal for narrow borders next to walls. Acaena Novae-Zealandiae. Almost evergreen, a useful sub-shrub, it forms thick carpets of soft, rich green feathery leaves in sunny, well-drained sites. Spreads rapidly by rooting stems. Good on banks. Publications
The new lawn expert by Dr D.G Hessayon.
RHS Practical Guides.
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